photo: Kobi Klaitman

The full version of this article was published on the Grape Man website in Hebrew.

When thinking about on-line registrations or ticket sales which close only hours after initiating, our immediate association will usually be of a rock star concert or a top sports event, in which only the luckiest will succeed in participating. This however is exactly what occurred when Tzora Vineyards announced their annual wine release of 2017. In less than 40 hours from going on line, the winery had no other choice but to end the registration for the event, on account of the enormous number of applicants and the concern that the winery halls will be too narrow for comfort, and also maybe that the new wines shall run out before they even reach the market. Regretfully, many wine lovers who didn't succeed in registering on time remained greatly disappointed.

Well, this apparently is the result when a high-quality, however quite small winery, launches its new wines, especially when it is led by a local wine star, Israel's quite recently announced and sole Master of Wine – Eran Pick. No Israeli wine lover shall knowingly miss a chance to celebrate the event with Tzora winery and taste their new, and somewhat expensive wines, moreover for free, wines that judging along past experience, reach high levels, vintage after vintage, and which in a short matter of time, may be very difficult to lay hands upon. This is especially true when referring to the white wines, which from the outset are produced in relatively small quantities.

Anyhow, aware of the situation, I made my way to kibbutz Tzora where the winery is located quite early on a Friday morning, laying aside my regular pre Sabbath chores, and arriving at the winery even before the 10 AM formal opening of the wine event, quite naively believing that maybe I shall receive the honor of being the first guest to swirl some wine in my glass. Indeed how naïve was this thought, entering the winery courtyard I noticed quite a few guests sitting about the tables, and not only where their glasses full with wines, but they were already swirling the reds, meaning that they have already completed tasting the two whites. At the time I myself went on to the red wines, before the clock struck 10 AM, the tasting rooms were almost full with enthusiastic tasters! No less than amazing.

As every year, Tzora Vineyards launched four new wines (although some of them had already met the wine store shelves in the past months) – 2 white wines and 2 reds. As custom in the past years, it seemed that none of the guests left the winery disappointed.

Tzora's wine portfolio, production methods and practices hardly change from vintage to vintage, except maybe the variety percentages in the final blends. What changes of course are the characteristics of the growing season, and the result, expressing the uniqueness of the vintage . Tzora Vineyards is one of Israel's most "terroiristic" wineries. The grapes come from several habitats, albeit with varying soils and meso-climates, all of them located in the Judean Hills "Shoresh" vineyard. The vineyard itself is divided into small parcels, dispersed upon a wide mountainous terrain, where the variation in elevation, soils, aspects and drainage, allow the  grape varieties too be planted according to their optimized needs, thus creating complex and age-worthy wines.

After completion of all necessary introductions, I shall move on to the initial purpose of my visit to the winery – the new Tzora Vineyards wines, the two launched whites being Judean Hills Blanc 2016 and Shoresh Blanc 2016, and the two reds:  Judean Hills 2015 and Shoresh 2015.

The 2016 growing season in the Judean Hills, which is depicted by the two white wines, was characterized by somewhat early however uniform ripening of the grapes, balanced crops, and as a whole, not many deviations from an average season in the region.

The growing season of 2015 – represented by the two red wines - was everything but average. After an exceptionally cold winter, with two snowy episodes in the Shoresh Vineyard and lower than average temperatures overall, during winter and spring, came a summer starting pleasantly, until a scorching hot August, one of the warmest in the past years, which effected the vines and grapes.

  Judean Hills Blanc 2016 - The wine is made from Chardonnay (90%) and Sauvignon Blanc (10%) grapes, grown on old terraces of shallow Terra-Rosa soil with a subsoil of limestone. The wine went through cool fermentation and Sur-Lie aging for 8 months in French barriques and stainless steel tanks without malolactic fermentation, in order to retain the natural acidity and freshness.

This is an easy drinking quality wine, fresh and mineral, showing citrus, green apple and peach with salty minerality on the nose. Good drinking today, which will develop in the bottle during the next 2-3 years. Priced at approx. 30$ at present NIS currency rate.

Shoresh Blanc 2016 - 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The wine went through cool fermentation and Sur-Lie aging for 7 months in French barriques.

A wonderful wine, without a doubt one of the highest level Israeli white wines. The nose is so intoxicating that I found myself contemplating if I should drink the wine, surely causing the marvelous perfumed scent to disappear. Intensively floral, with notes of orange citrus fruit, apricot and peach, and a refreshing minerality in the background.

The palate is rich and powerful, following the nose. Good acidity and well balanced. The only nook being a finish somewhat shorter than expected. Expected to develop in the bottle for a further 2-3 years. 140 NIS – approx. 38$.

Judean Hills 2015 - This wine is made from selected plots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot grown on old terraces with top-soil of limestone rich in minerals. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

Not completely ready in my opinion and will surely benefit with cellaring for another year or so. Ripe plums and blueberries, bittersweet chocolate spices, and after opening in the glass earthy and meaty undertones. The palate is yet subdued with stressed but pleasant tannins. At this time feals somewhat lacking in acidity, but will probably achieve its balance later on. To improve in the bottle in the next five years. 110 NIS – approx. 30$.

Shoresh 2015 - The grapes of Shoresh 2015 are sourced from small blocks of rocky soil. On this shallow and poor soil the vines strive for nutrition, which results in concentrated grapes with an array of flavors. This is a blend of Syrah (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (41%), and Petit Verdot (14%). Shoresh 2015 was bottled after an aging period of 16 months in French oak barriques and is a result of joint work with the winery's consultant, Mr. Jean-Claude Berrouet, the preceding Technical Director of Chateau Pétrus.

Dark purple colored. The nose is quite expressive for a wine so young, with rich dark and ripe fruit and roasted tones, though at this period in time seems quite alcoholic and yet still not quite integrated.. After more than 20 minutes of swirling in the glass, spicy scents join the plums and ripe berries, followed by intensive white and black pepper, with earthy scents in the background.

The palate feels very young and not quite ready, although there is no doubt that with proper time the wine will reach its balance, and turn out to be a very interesting high quality wine. Recommended for at least two to three years of cellaring and for maximum enjoyment, even longer. Will develop and improve in the bottle for 10 years or more.  Priced at 140 NIS or 38$.